PATTERN CUTTING | CONSTRUCTION

To begin the construction of the final jerkin I had to cut all the pattern pieces out of the top fabric (wool) and the lining fabric. To each of these pattern pieces I also had to add seam allowances of an inch. This meant I had to measure an inch round every piece on both fabrics.

Once all of the pattern pieces had been cut out of the material the construction could begin. Joining all of the wooden pattern pieces together was a fairly straight forward task due to the experience that I already had from previous studies. All of the seams literally had to be joined using simple straight stick, pretty standard. To complete this I pinned and tacked all of the pieces together then sewed them along the seam allowance line.

When moving onto sewing the lining together, it began to get a little more complicated. I begun by sewing the 3 top pieces together the same way as I did with the wool. I then had to sew the 3 skirt panels together separately as well.

The next step was to attach the lining to the top fabric. I did this using both the sewing machines and hand stitching. I found it very difficult to attach the armholes to the lining as it required a lot of awkward sewing and twisting and turning of the fabric. I am, however, pleased with the finish on the arm holes. It was important to remember to snip the seams between the wool and the lining in order to get a sharp seam when the garment is worn.
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Final jerkin

The last step of constructing my medieval jerkin was to add in a fastening. The historical fastenings for this garment were made up of 4 eyelets and string. There were 2 eyelids on either side of the garments opening. To do this we made holes in the material and then used a button hole stitch to make sure they maintained their shape, and didn’t fray.

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