PATTERN CUTTING | TOILE

The next step in creating our medieval jerkins, was to cut materials using our pattern pieces. For fitting purposes we decided to make a toile first. This means constructing the garment using cheaper materials, such as calico, in order to check it fits the model correctly. I personally was thankful for the decision to do this, as I have never been very good at fitting garments to models.

To create our toile we cut each pattern piece out in calico and tacked it together making sure to match all the seems. By doing this I was able to iron out all the fitting issues that I had. I put the toile onto my model inside out, this allowed me to get at the seems easily. The toile highlighted the fact that my skirt wasn’t quite right. It was not flared enough to fit in with the time period. I had to alter this by cutting slits and filling them with more material.

Another element of the garment that needed attention was the arm holes. We pattern cut our arm holes to the basic block, therefore the shape was not accurate to a jerkin. To rectify this I had to shorten the width of the arm holes and increase the length. This meant that the shoulder seem ended in the correct place and allowed for increased movement within the garment.

The alterations that I made to the toile then had to be translated into the pattern. I had to re lay each of the pieces onto my pattern and use carbon paper to draw on the new lines. I found this process a little stressful and confusing, as it was really important for each side of the pattern to match.

Toile | side view | back view | front view

Now that the pattern has been modified and completed I can begin to cut out the material intended for the jerkin.

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